Everything we build, built in-house
No subcontracted framing crews — the people who quote your job are the ones who build it.
Custom Decks
Ground-level, raised, or multi-level decks in pressure-treated lumber, cedar, tropical hardwood, or low-maintenance composite. Every deck is engineered to local building code, with footings sized to your soil and span. We handle the layout, the framing, and the finish work as one crew, so the structure underneath is built to the same standard as the boards you'll actually see.
Pergolas
Open-rafter or louvered pergolas that read as real carpentry — post-and-beam construction, not a big-box kit. Fixed or motorized louvers available for adjustable shade. Sized and engineered for your footprint, whether it's anchoring a poolside lounge or shading a dining space off the back of the house.
Gazebos & Screened Structures
Fully roofed gazebos and screened-in structures for bug-free evenings — built with proper roof framing and flashing, not a canopy tent. Options range from an open-air rectangular roof to a fully screened octagon with a real ceiling and lighting run.
Fences & Privacy Screens
Board-on-board privacy fencing, horizontal-slat screens, and gate work — finished to match your deck so the whole yard reads as one project. We set posts below frost line and stain or finish to match your existing structure, not a mismatched add-on.
Outdoor Kitchens
Stone or veneer bar structures with built-in grills, fridges, and prep space — framed and roofed as one integrated project with your deck. We run the gas, electrical rough-in, and countertop layout around how you actually cook and entertain outside.
Railings
Glass panel, aluminum, and cable railing systems — built to code for elevated decks, with a clean sightline that doesn't block the view. Post spacing and glass thickness are calculated to your deck height, not a one-size guess.
Repairs & Rebuilds
Rotted ledger boards, failing railings, sagging stairs — we inspect the structure underneath, not just what's visible, before quoting a repair. If the framing is still sound we repair it in place; if it's not, we tell you honestly and rebuild it right.
What we build with
Material choice affects cost, maintenance, and how long the deck lasts — here's what we work with and why.
Composite Decking
We install all the major brands, and can help you compare them for your specific deck:
Trex — the original composite brand, widely available, with hidden-fastener systems for a clean, screw-free surface.
TimberTech & AZEK — TimberTech's composite lines plus their premium AZEK PVC boards, which are 100% polymer with no wood fibers at all, so there's nothing inside the board that can absorb moisture or rot.
Fiberon — a strong price-to-warranty ratio, with multi-tonal color blends that read closer to real wood grain.
Deckorators — mineral-based composite (no wood fiber core), which means very low expansion and contraction through temperature swings — a real advantage on multi-level decks and long, unbroken runs of boards.
Ipe & Tropical Hardwood
Ipe (Brazilian walnut) is about as close to a "forever" deck board as a natural material gets. It's roughly three times harder than white oak, dense enough to sink in water, and naturally resistant to rot, insects, and fire — no chemical treatment needed. A well-built Ipe deck can last 40+ years.
The tradeoff: it's a premium material, it's heavy, and it needs to be pre-drilled and fastened with stainless steel hardware since standard screws won't drive into it cleanly. Left unfinished, it weathers to a silver-grey patina; oiled periodically, it holds its rich brown color. We'll walk you through both looks before you decide.
The frame matters more than the boards
Composite decking can carry a 25–50 year warranty, but that number means nothing if the wood frame underneath it rots out in 15. Most deck failures start in the substructure, not the surface — so that's where we put the extra effort.
Taped Joists & Beams
Modern pressure-treated lumber doesn't have the longevity of the old arsenic-treated stock. Water gets in through every screw hole and sits on flat joist tops — that's where rot actually starts. We apply butyl flashing tape to the top of every joist, beam, and ledger board before the decking goes down, sealing those fastener penetrations and keeping water off the wood entirely.
Protected Stringers
Stair stringers collect standing water and debris more than almost any other part of a deck, and they're expensive to replace once they go. We tape and flash stringers the same way we treat joists — it's a small material cost against a structural component that's a real headache to fix later.
Steel & Composite Framing
For ground-level decks, multi-level structures, or anywhere long-term rot risk is a real concern, we can frame with galvanized steel beams and posts instead of wood. Steel framing can't rot, period — there's no organic material for moisture to break down. It costs more up front than an all-lumber frame, but it removes substructure failure as a long-term risk entirely.
Not sure which structure fits your yard?
Tell us the space and how you want to use it — we'll recommend the right build during your free consult.
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